I was nervous about flying on Thai Airways, after reading reviews of their tired Business Class lounge at Bangkok and, and having been staying in the Mandarin Oriental in Bangkok with its butler service, wondered how the ‘intense’ Thai service culture would fit with the Four Seasons’ Golden Rule philosophy to “treat others as you would want to be treated yourself”.
| From my stay the previous week, the Bangkok Mandarin Oriental is clearly one of the great hotels of the world, and I had an incredible stay there. However, there were times when you almost wanted to creep past the butlers' desk by the elevators, and I know other guests there felt the same. The fact I had been warned about the aftermath of typhoon weather did not help either. |
Domestic Thai Airways Royal Silk: Is It Really Business Class?
The taxi journey to Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi airport took 40 minutes and cost 270 Baht + 75 Baht in toll fees. There was gold leaf and paste on the ceiling of the taxi, a blessing undertaken by a monk in a ceremony when the vehicle was purchased.
Thai Airways Royal Silk (Business Class) check-in was empty and quick and the only thing of note was security wanting shoes placed in a blue tray, with liquids bags etc placed in pink trays. I assume this relates to shoes being culturally regarded as unclean.
Thai Airways Royal Silk (Business Class) check-in was empty and quick and the only thing of note was security wanting shoes placed in a blue tray, with liquids bags etc placed in pink trays. I assume this relates to shoes being culturally regarded as unclean.
Incredible The Royal Silk lounge was very clean and well staffed but does need an update. It is odd that a Business Class lounge does not serve any alcohol. The dim sum were passable but the sandwiches rather good. The novelty feature was a pancake making machine. However, watching it work was better than the taste of the pancakes it produced. Time magazine was the only English publication in the lounge and, as well as no announcements; there were no screens in the lounge showing flights. It is a domestic lounge but I think it should be better. Having made this point, the WiFi worked well and so I could complain about the lounge to Thai Airways and they Tweeted a standard reply about how they would improve the service.
Thai Airways fly a Boeing 777 on this route for the 1-hour journey. I was on the 1:10pm flight in seat 15B. Having last flown on a Qatar Airways A380 in Business Class, I was still impressed by the Silk Class seat configuration. However, the entertainment system did not work and I was shocked to find no alcohol is offered in Business Class. The duck lunch was mediocre/bland, a real shame given the incredible quality of Thai food generally, but sitting next to a Buddhist monk made it an interesting flight. A significant delegation of Buddhist monks were on the flight and their reception at Chiang Mai was fascinating to observe.
Thai Airways fly a Boeing 777 on this route for the 1-hour journey. I was on the 1:10pm flight in seat 15B. Having last flown on a Qatar Airways A380 in Business Class, I was still impressed by the Silk Class seat configuration. However, the entertainment system did not work and I was shocked to find no alcohol is offered in Business Class. The duck lunch was mediocre/bland, a real shame given the incredible quality of Thai food generally, but sitting next to a Buddhist monk made it an interesting flight. A significant delegation of Buddhist monks were on the flight and their reception at Chiang Mai was fascinating to observe.
CHIANG MAI FOUR SEASONSWhat a WelcomeA Four Seasons Mercedes with WiFi was waiting for me at the airport. It was a 25 minute drive to the hotel with chilled water and cold towels provided and they had installed a child seat for my Four Seasons teddy bear, Issy. The concierge Kris kindly came to chat to me on the ride to the hotel. |  Issy rides to the Four Seasons Chiang Mai in style. He gets his own baby seat in the Mercedes. |
Many of the key staff at Four Seasons Chiang Mai came to welcome me and they did this with such genuine warm. At the Chiang Mai Four Seasons Michael Branham, the General Manager, was there to greet me with the largest Four Seasons welcome committee to date.
The staff seemed genuinely thrilled to have me staying. I was given two welcome orchid garlands and photos were taken. Other guests were curious as to who had arrived warranting such a fuss. Michael had been quick to reply to any emails I sent to him prior to my arrival and he (and his team) were excellent at improving on any ideas I had for things to do.
The staff seemed genuinely thrilled to have me staying. I was given two welcome orchid garlands and photos were taken. Other guests were curious as to who had arrived warranting such a fuss. Michael had been quick to reply to any emails I sent to him prior to my arrival and he (and his team) were excellent at improving on any ideas I had for things to do.
Welcome gifts of Veuve Clicquot champagne, a melon sculpted with a personalised welcome message & even macaroons for Issy. The hotel is divided between Rice Pavilions (with verandas), Villas (with private pools) and three to four story Thai-Burmese style Private Residences.
I had been upgraded to a stunning villa. I was told number 6, where I was, had the best configuration/views. The villa has a private infinite pool in dark colours and is decorated with Thai silks and good taste. The bedroom contains a sunken sitting area and the shower in the bathroom has the ability to be ‘outside’ and there were two further outside showers. A number of thoughtful gifts had been left for us both and my feet were washed in petal infused water. The lady who did this had a perfect technique.
I had been upgraded to a stunning villa. I was told number 6, where I was, had the best configuration/views. The villa has a private infinite pool in dark colours and is decorated with Thai silks and good taste. The bedroom contains a sunken sitting area and the shower in the bathroom has the ability to be ‘outside’ and there were two further outside showers. A number of thoughtful gifts had been left for us both and my feet were washed in petal infused water. The lady who did this had a perfect technique.
The smell of this mussels and gnocchi dish alone should win Chef Stephane and his team a prize. After a brief rest it was off to see (and ride) the Water Buffalo and then following the singing end of day procession of gardeners. These were all moments to treasure.
It was then sunset drinks on the terrace with the Four Seasons management team where I tried Thai wine - it has vastly improved since the 1980s - and was told about the hotel’s passion for locally grown products, also a Thai Royal initiative.
I then went back to the villa to cool down before a dinner back in the Terrance Restaurant where a succession of incredible dishes was served. The staff made a perfect very dry martini and the food was extraordinary. I have rarely eaten fresh tomatoes with flavour so good and all the food smelt and tasted sublime. Chef Stephane explained he grows the mushrooms etc himself and Mustafa, from Four Seasons management, was fun to chat with. A ‘Mediterranean night’ in Chiang Mai to remember.
It was then sunset drinks on the terrace with the Four Seasons management team where I tried Thai wine - it has vastly improved since the 1980s - and was told about the hotel’s passion for locally grown products, also a Thai Royal initiative.
I then went back to the villa to cool down before a dinner back in the Terrance Restaurant where a succession of incredible dishes was served. The staff made a perfect very dry martini and the food was extraordinary. I have rarely eaten fresh tomatoes with flavour so good and all the food smelt and tasted sublime. Chef Stephane explained he grows the mushrooms etc himself and Mustafa, from Four Seasons management, was fun to chat with. A ‘Mediterranean night’ in Chiang Mai to remember.
A Thai breakfast of epic proportions to start the day. Friday I woke early and staff set up the table in the pavilion by my private pool and a chef came to the villa to cook a Thai breakfast feast. Many of the foods were a struggle at breakfast, for the Western palate (eg rice porridge with dried fish), but interesting to try. I adored the spiced minced chicken dish with hot basil leaves (Pad Bai Kra Praow Gai) and the Thai omelet.
The location for the Thai boxing, out by the lake, was spectacular. Afterwards was a Thai boxing exercise with a Muay Thai boxer outside. He was very patient with me and I even, eventually, started to get into the spirit of the jabs and kicks using fists, arms, legs, knees and elbows. From the amount I sweated, it is clearly great exercise. Now I have got over my self-conciousness, I may try it again at Four Seasons Koh Samui next month.
At 10am I joined a ‘tour’ of the gardens, which were designed by architect Bill Bensley, and nature trail walk. OK, I was the only guest. I loved Padi’s funny/informative tour and the gardeners who joined us were so sweet, passing me samples to feel and smell.
Bill's motto is "the more odd the better" and the grounds are stunning. He had also designed a number of the buildings at Four Seasons Chiang Mai and Koh Samui and is eco-sensitive.
At 10am I joined a ‘tour’ of the gardens, which were designed by architect Bill Bensley, and nature trail walk. OK, I was the only guest. I loved Padi’s funny/informative tour and the gardeners who joined us were so sweet, passing me samples to feel and smell.
Bill's motto is "the more odd the better" and the grounds are stunning. He had also designed a number of the buildings at Four Seasons Chiang Mai and Koh Samui and is eco-sensitive.
Ganesha, a deity with Hindu & Buddhist devotees who is thought to bring good fortune and forms the main shrine for the hotel, directly outside the lobby. Hope he brings everyone reading, and associated with, this blog luck.
Next I had an Ila purity facial in the spa. Ila is the hotel’s natural bath products. It was an incredible experience which really relaxed me with hot and cold stones used on my face etc, incredible smells and a perfect technique.
Next I had an Ila purity facial in the spa. Ila is the hotel’s natural bath products. It was an incredible experience which really relaxed me with hot and cold stones used on my face etc, incredible smells and a perfect technique.
Grating Green Papaya with Chef Meow, not as easy as it might sound. After this I returned to my villa to drink the rest of the Veuve Clicquot in my infinity pool using the WiFi to joke with people online.
I came back inside to find spicy poppadoms - you have to love Four Seasons. Then my clothes for that night arrived by from the laundry. An impressive job..
That evening was the Thai Chef’s Table in the Cooking School. At first I was so thrilled not to have to cook. It started with minced chicken salad (Larb E-Sarn Gai) with lettuce leaves and then spicy prawns (Pad Cha Goong) that were to die for. Various Four Seasons management came to chat (eg Jose) and after the GM’s chat, we decided I should made a spicy green papaya salad (Som Tum) with Chef Meow. She was fierce but friendly and it was more fun than I expected.
I came back inside to find spicy poppadoms - you have to love Four Seasons. Then my clothes for that night arrived by from the laundry. An impressive job..
That evening was the Thai Chef’s Table in the Cooking School. At first I was so thrilled not to have to cook. It started with minced chicken salad (Larb E-Sarn Gai) with lettuce leaves and then spicy prawns (Pad Cha Goong) that were to die for. Various Four Seasons management came to chat (eg Jose) and after the GM’s chat, we decided I should made a spicy green papaya salad (Som Tum) with Chef Meow. She was fierce but friendly and it was more fun than I expected.
The Four Seasons rice planting outfit that fits Issy perfectly. Then I went for a martini at the bar by the pool.
I got back to my villa to find a notebook covered in green Thai silk with a quote dedicated to me in gold and a rice planting suit made for Issy - I was blown away by Four Seasons Chiang Mia and the staff’s thoughtfulness. Mandarin Oriental in Bangkok were good to me but nothing like this.
I had to swim in my private pool to calm down/clear my mind.
I got back to my villa to find a notebook covered in green Thai silk with a quote dedicated to me in gold and a rice planting suit made for Issy - I was blown away by Four Seasons Chiang Mia and the staff’s thoughtfulness. Mandarin Oriental in Bangkok were good to me but nothing like this.
I had to swim in my private pool to calm down/clear my mind.
A Morning You Could Not Buy
More Veuve Clicquot was served in the stunning location of the rice barn & Chef Stephane was there to explain his new breakfast menu & have a laugh. Saturday started with breakfast with GM Michael in the rice barn on the lake. Chef Stephane was present and we tried his new breakfast menu. The venue is breathtaking and the boiled eggs topped with salmon eggs with brioche ‘soldiers’ were a piece of art and tasted divine, with the saltiness of the salmon eggs working perfectly. There were so many interesting fruits, fresh juices and pastries. Veuve Clicquot was served and it was an experience like no other. Four Seasons at its best.
Sports Day
At 8:45am there was a Four Seasons Employees Friends & Family Sports Day, which I was due to help open, with Michael the GM. We were taken to a local school in a hotel limo and I was introduced as the hotel’s number one guest and representative of Mr Sharp/Toronto, which was very sweet and generous. I gave a small speech, released balloons and then tried (with no rhythm) to Thai dance. It was all an experience you could not buy and I was so proud to have been included.
At 8:45am there was a Four Seasons Employees Friends & Family Sports Day, which I was due to help open, with Michael the GM. We were taken to a local school in a hotel limo and I was introduced as the hotel’s number one guest and representative of Mr Sharp/Toronto, which was very sweet and generous. I gave a small speech, released balloons and then tried (with no rhythm) to Thai dance. It was all an experience you could not buy and I was so proud to have been included.
Too muddy for Issy but I was glad I 'braved' conditions in the paddy field to understand the labour-intensive process of growing rice. At 10:30am I joined a party of French and Japanese guests learning how to plant rice wearing a Mor Hom (traditional farmer’s costume).
Padi was our guide again and it was an interesting and informative experience that helped me bond with other guests. I will never be able to eat rice again without thinking about the work it takes to produce it.
Padi was our guide again and it was an interesting and informative experience that helped me bond with other guests. I will never be able to eat rice again without thinking about the work it takes to produce it.
The pool at Four Seasons Chiang Mai's most impressive Residence, the incredible venue for my final dinner. It was then back to the villa to relax and swim and ring my mother in the UK, not realising it was 7am there. Lunch was a bacon cheeseburger by my private pool. I wanted Western food before that evening and it was perfectly medium rare and delicious.
In the afternoon I was shown the hotel’s best Residence and was told that was where my final dinner was being held that night. It was another breathtaking venue with pools you would not believe and the Guest Experience Manager, Kantima, who showed me around tried to teach me some basic Thai.
In the afternoon I was shown the hotel’s best Residence and was told that was where my final dinner was being held that night. It was another breathtaking venue with pools you would not believe and the Guest Experience Manager, Kantima, who showed me around tried to teach me some basic Thai.
 The 'stag' & the stunning Northern Thai dancers' costumes. There were four costume changes & a wide variety of Thai styles. | Back at the villa E! channel had impressively been installed, something I asked the GM about the night before. Then I ran a foam bath to get ready for my big last night, loving the natural Ila products. At 5:30pm my Thai outfit for that night arrived. It ended up meaning Issy and I were wearing the same outfits. At 6:30pm was my ‘Khantoke’ Thai dinner outside the Residence I saw earlier with flaming torches by the pool. There were various Thai dancing floorshows which blended the right amount of variety and comedy (with a stag played by two performers in a costume) and some beautiful costumes. While watching this I ate a succession of Thai dishes, Kantima and Wattanaree made delightful company during this whole experience. |
The dish that stood out was the lightly spiced clear chicken soup (Tom Saab Gai) - spicing reduced for my palate and the best soup I have eating in Thailand. There was also a marinated pork with tamarind sauce dish (Moo Yang Jan Ron Jim Jaew) I loved. It was another ‘only at Four Seasons’ experience. Back at my villa a chocolate elephant had been left for me in a beautiful Four Seasons box topped with green Thai silk. A sweet gift before I saw the real elephants the next day.
I ended the night swimming in my private pool again to cool down.
I ended the night swimming in my private pool again to cool down.
LIONS, TIGER & BEARS? NO ELEPHANTS!!!!
Sunday I woke early and ordered Eggs Benedict with smoked salmon, which I wanted to eat out by the pool. However, another breakfast feast came with it. This included ‘homemade’ preserves and Eggs Frittata which were divine and incredible orchids to decorate the table. I wanted a special breakfast and Four Seasons Chiang Mai did far better than this.
Just look at my face to see I felt nothing like an 'elephant controller' at this point. This was the morning I was due to spend with the elephants. A Four Seasons Mercedes took me there and the ‘Elephant Life Experience’ camp was luxurious. I started feeding two elephants (one baby) sugar cane and was mesmerised by them.
Then I changed into the ‘Issy outfit’ again (with a straw 'Mahout’ hat this time). I was soon bareback riding an elephant scared out of my wits that I would fall off. .
Then I changed into the ‘Issy outfit’ again (with a straw 'Mahout’ hat this time). I was soon bareback riding an elephant scared out of my wits that I would fall off. .
| Next was painting with a baby elephant, an incredible experience with him painting flowers as I passed him brushes. The baby elephant seemed to enjoy it all even more than me, or maybe it was just the thought of his sugar cane prize after. It was then deciding if I wanted to ride on an elephant using a wooden ‘bench’. I was not sure but was so glad I did. It felt more secure and riding through the Mae Tang river on an elephant was one of the best experiences I have had for years. We then rode through the jungle before bathing the elephants in the river. The ‘Elephant Life Experience’ camp gave me a very reassuring impression of the way the elephants are treated (at least in this camp) and is clearly a quality operation. |  Painting with a baby elephant was more my sort of thing. |
Rafting with a beer in your hand makes for a perfect end to a Sunday afternoon. Lunch was a Four Seasons picnic with various Thai foods, including fried sea bass with a mango salad (Pla Kapong Thord) and spicy Chiang Mai pork sausages that seemed like they would have been better heated. However, the spicy prawn salad (Yum Goong Sod), fried rice with crab meat (Kaow Pad Poo) and cookies were good and there was Chang beer. I was brought an excellent coffee at the end.
After lunch I had a leisurely ride down the river on a raft with more beer, perfect on a Sunday. We saw one of the more ‘commercial’ elephant camps on the way and I was glad to have nothing to do with it.
After lunch I had a leisurely ride down the river on a raft with more beer, perfect on a Sunday. We saw one of the more ‘commercial’ elephant camps on the way and I was glad to have nothing to do with it.
| The Four Seasons Mercedes was waiting for me with WiFi and I was soon back at my villa to find more incredible gift from Four Seasons (a fresh ‘Issy outfit’ for me; Water Buffalo soft toys wearing Four Seasons Chiang Mai scarfs etc). I had a final swim and packed. At reception there was a huge delegation of staff (and real Water Buffalo) and it was an emotional experience saying goodbye, after the staff had made me feel so warmly welcome and looked after me so well. Photos were taken with the large group and I felt like a Four Seasons celebrity. |  I left with so many perfect gifts, including a chocolate elephant and a pair of Water Buffalo which I have decided to call Padi (after that great lady) & Nahm (water). |
Goodbye
 Even the Water Buffalo came to say goodbye, leading to a funny incident with the young albino. | The Four Seasons Mercedes took me to Chiang Mai and dropped me at New York New York for a haircut where the staff’s grasp of English, and how stylish the place was, amazed me. Another great recommendation from The Four Seasons. Four Seasons Chiang Mai is one of the best Four Seasons I have visited. It is a stunning property that is very well maintained while still small enough to provide true personal service. Overall 6 out of 5 'teddies' without any doubt. |
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